Reviewed by Ashley Harwyn, PA-C, ABAAHP | A4M Board Certified | Updated October 4, 2026
Acne starts inside the pore, not on a dirty face. Here is what the 2024 dermatology guideline supports, how hormonal acne in adult women is treated, and how long it really takes.
Acne is not a hygiene problem. It starts inside the pore, where oil, dead skin cells, and bacteria build up and set off inflammation, and hormones help drive the oil.[3] That is why scrubbing harder rarely helps and can make breakouts worse.[3] This page covers active breakouts. If your main concern is the marks or pitted scars old acne left behind, our acne scar treatment page covers the procedures built for that.
- Acne forms when oil, dead skin cells, and bacteria plug a hair follicle and inflammation follows. Dirt is not the cause.[3]
- The AAD's 2024 guideline gives its strongest support to benzoyl peroxide, topical retinoids, topical antibiotics, and oral doxycycline.[1]
- Oral antibiotics are meant for the shortest course that works, paired with a topical such as benzoyl peroxide to limit resistance.[1][2]
- Spironolactone is an off-label, guideline-supported option for adult women. In a large trial, 82% reported improvement at 24 weeks, versus 63% on placebo.[1][4]
- Expect at least 6 to 8 weeks before breakouts ease, then a maintenance step, often a topical retinoid.[2]
- Diet and stress do not cause acne but may worsen it, and the food research is still mixed.[3][7]
Why breakouts happen, and why scrubbing will not fix them
Acne happens when hair follicles under the skin become clogged.[3] Three things build up inside the follicle: extra oil, dead skin cells that do not shed properly, and bacteria that grow in the plugged space.[3] When the follicle wall breaks down, its contents spill into nearby skin, and the inflammation that follows produces the red, tender bumps you can see and feel.[3]
The type of bump shows how deep the process goes. Whiteheads are plugged follicles that stay beneath the skin, and blackheads are plugs that reach the surface and open up. Papules and pustules are inflamed. Nodules and cysts are large, painful lesions lodged deep in the skin.[3] Each calls for a different plan.
Hormones sit upstream of all of this. Androgens, which rise in both boys and girls at puberty, enlarge the oil glands and push them to make more sebum.[3] Acne can carry on into adulthood, and when it does, it is more common in women. Researchers also believe you are more likely to get acne if your parents had it.[3]
Dirt is not a cause. Scrubbing too hard, picking at blemishes, and pressure from helmets, backpacks, or tight clothing can all make acne worse, so a gentle routine beats an aggressive one.[3] Diet and stress fall in the same group: neither causes acne, but either may make it worse.[3] You cannot wash your way out of a problem that lives in the oil gland and the follicle wall. Treatment has to reach the pore.
Reach the pore with guideline-backed treatment: benzoyl peroxide and a retinoid working together, a time-limited antibiotic when acne is inflamed, hormonal options for adult women, and a maintenance plan that keeps skin clear once it settles.
Harsh scrubs and cleanses sold as a cure for a dirt problem acne does not have, diet-only fixes, facials or peels offered in place of medicine, and open-ended antibiotic courses with nothing planned for when they stop.
Which acne treatments the evidence supports
In 2024 the American Academy of Dermatology updated its acne guideline after a systematic review that graded the evidence behind each option, producing 18 recommendations and 5 good practice statements.[1] Strong support went to benzoyl peroxide, topical retinoids, topical antibiotics, and oral doxycycline. Conditional support, meaning the evidence or trade-offs are less clear-cut, went to salicylic acid, azelaic acid, clascoterone, minocycline, sarecycline, combined birth control pills, and spironolactone.[1]
| Treatment | What it does | 2024 AAD guideline rating |
|---|---|---|
| Benzoyl peroxide wash or gel | Reduces acne-causing bacteria on the skin[2] | Strong[1] |
| Topical retinoid | Clears pores; treats blackheads, whiteheads, some pimples[2] | Strong[1] |
| Topical antibiotic, paired with benzoyl peroxide | Targets bacteria; the pairing helps limit resistance[2] | Strong[1] |
| Oral doxycycline | Antibiotic for inflamed acne, for the shortest course needed[2] | Strong[1] |
| Salicylic acid or azelaic acid | Opens clogged pores; azelaic acid also calms inflammation[2] | Conditional[1] |
| Spironolactone, for women | Used for stubborn hormonal acne[2] | Conditional[1] |
| Isotretinoin | For severe, scarring, or treatment-resistant acne[1] | Strong, for those cases[1] |
Points worth raising with Ashley
Check anything that fits. This does not diagnose anything; it helps you decide what to mention first so the visit starts in the right place.
One pattern matters more than any single product. The guideline favors combining topical treatments that work in different ways, because acne has several causes at once.[1] The AAD notes that combining can fight more than one cause, help each medicine work better, and reduce irritation.[2] A retinoid opens the pore while benzoyl peroxide lowers bacteria, so the pair covers ground neither covers alone. For mild to moderate acne, that is a sensible place to begin.
Over-the-counter salicylic acid opens clogged pores and exfoliates, but its rating is conditional.[1][2] We can build it into a daily skin care routine, along with medical-grade products from ZO Skin Health, as long as everyone is clear that these support prescription treatment rather than replace it.
Adult and hormonal acne in women
Many women with acne are well past their teens. The guideline gives two hormonal options conditional support: combined oral contraceptive pills and spironolactone.[1] The AAD describes spironolactone as a treatment for stubborn hormonal acne, sometimes prescribed together with a birth control pill.[2]
Spironolactone is an older medicine. Its FDA-approved uses include heart failure, high blood pressure, fluid buildup, and certain hormone and potassium problems. Acne is not on that list.[5] Prescribing it for acne is off-label, which is why the quality of the trial evidence matters.
The best evidence comes from the SAFA trial, published in the BMJ in 2023. Researchers in England and Wales randomly assigned 410 adult women with persistent facial acne to spironolactone or placebo for 24 weeks, and the women could keep using their topical treatments.[4] At 12 weeks, the gap in self-reported improvement was small and not statistically significant, 72% versus 68%. By 24 weeks it was clear: 82% on spironolactone said their acne had improved, compared with 63% on placebo.[4] The authors called it a useful alternative to oral antibiotics for women with acne.[4]
It is not a casual prescription. Headaches were more common on spironolactone in that trial, 20% versus 12%, though no serious adverse reactions were reported.[4] Enlarged or tender breasts and irregular periods are listed side effects, and people taking it should avoid potassium-containing salt substitutes.[5] Most important, it can cause severe birth defects, so women who can become pregnant need reliable birth control while taking it.[2] If acne arrives alongside irregular periods or new facial hair, we may also look at the wider hormonal picture through our gynecology and hormone care.
Still breaking out as an adult? Hormonal acne has real, studied treatments. Call 843-981-0870 to talk through whether spironolactone, a topical combination, or another option fits your skin, your cycle, and your plans for pregnancy.
Antibiotics, isotretinoin, and in-office procedures
Oral antibiotics such as doxycycline have strong support for inflamed acne, with conditions attached: limit systemic use and pair it with topical treatment.[1] In plain terms, the AAD says dermatologists now prescribe an antibiotic for the shortest time needed, usually several months, alongside a medicine like benzoyl peroxide.[2] The reason is antibiotic resistance, when the drugs meant to kill bacteria stop working.[2] So an antibiotic in your plan comes with an end date and a topical routine to hold the gains.
For acne that is severe, scarring, causing real distress, or failing standard treatment, the guideline strongly recommends oral isotretinoin.[1] It is a powerful and tightly regulated medicine. Every FDA-approved isotretinoin product falls under the FDA's iPLEDGE program, which enrolls prescribers, pharmacies, and patients to prevent harm to a developing baby, and pre-treatment pregnancy tests must be done in a medical setting.[6] If your acne has reached that point, we will say so directly and help you find a dermatologist who prescribes within the program.
In-office treatments back up medical treatment rather than stand in for it. A chemical peel helps remove the dead skin cells and excess oil that clog pores.[2] Laser or light-based therapy may be part of a plan for mild to moderate acne, and our laser services can fit in that way.[2] For a single large, painful breakout, a dermatology clinician may inject a corticosteroid to relieve the swelling, which the guideline lists as good practice for larger lesions.[1][2]
What the first months of treatment look like
Patience is part of the prescription. The AAD says it takes at least 6 to 8 weeks to see fewer breakouts, which is why we judge a plan at a follow-up visit rather than after one rough week.[2] The SAFA results tell the same story, with the benefit modest at 12 weeks and much clearer by 24.[4] The AAD also advises a non-comedogenic sunscreen on all skin not covered by clothing.[2]
Clear skin is a milestone, not the finish line. Once acne is under control, a topical retinoid is often kept on as maintenance because it can help keep skin clear.[2] We plan any step-down with you, one change at a time.
Food evidence is mixed. Some studies found that a low-glycemic diet, limiting foods like white bread and fries, led to fewer breakouts, while others found no link, and the AAD says more research is needed.[7] One study linked skim milk to acne, but no studies have tied yogurt or cheese to breakouts.[7] A short food and breakout diary can reveal your own pattern, and our nutritional therapy service can help test a change. Diet alone is not enough, though; the AAD says clear skin also takes skin care and medication.[7]
A first acne visit with Ashley Harwyn, PA-C, starts with your story: how long the breakouts have lasted, what you have tried, your cycle and birth control if they apply, and any pregnancy plans, since some acne medicines are unsafe in pregnancy. Ashley holds A4M board certification in anti-aging and functional medicine, along with the ABAAHP credential. You can see her at our Mount Pleasant office on Bramson Court or downtown at The Longevity Club on Rutledge Avenue in Charleston. If dark spots linger after pimples heal, our hyperpigmentation care is the next stop, and pitted or raised scars belong with acne scar treatment.
Acne and Acne Scars
For the marks and scars that remain after breakouts heal. Read Acne and Acne Scars.
Chemical Peels
An in-office add-on that helps clear clogged pores. Read Chemical Peels.
ZO Skin Health
Medical-grade products that support a prescription routine. Read ZO Skin Health.
Nutritional Therapy
For testing whether food plays a part in your breakouts. Read Nutritional Therapy.
Ashley Harwyn, PA-C
PA-C, ABAAHP · Founder, Solcara Health
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Ashley Harwyn, PA-C, ABAAHP
Founder, Solcara Health · Diplomate, American Board of Anti-Aging Health Practitioners (ABAAHP)
Ashley has practiced medicine for more than fifteen years. Her path into it began at home, with a family member born with a congenital heart defect and a childhood spent watching how much the quality of a clinician's attention could change the shape of a life. She has since practiced across a range of settings, including medical mission work in Uganda, before founding Solcara to build the kind of practice she kept wishing existed, one that treats patients as whole people and tells them the truth about what the evidence does and does not support.
Full bio →References
The American Academy of Dermatology 2024 acne guideline and its patient pages on acne treatment and diet, the NIAMS acne overview, the SAFA randomized trial of spironolactone in the BMJ, MedlinePlus drug information on spironolactone, and the FDA iPLEDGE REMS page, each accessed October 4, 2026.
- Reynolds RV, Yeung H, Cheng CE, et al. Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2024. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- American Academy of Dermatology. Acne: Diagnosis and treatment. AAD.org. aad.org
- National Institute of Arthritis and Musculoskeletal and Skin Diseases. Acne: Types, Causes, and Risk Factors. National Institutes of Health. 2023. niams.nih.gov
- Santer M, Lawrence M, Renz S, et al. Effectiveness of spironolactone for women with acne vulgaris (SAFA) in England and Wales: pragmatic, multicentre, phase 3, double blind, randomised controlled trial. BMJ. 2023. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- MedlinePlus, National Library of Medicine. Spironolactone. 2018. medlineplus.gov
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. iPLEDGE Risk Evaluation and Mitigation Strategy (REMS). 2026. fda.gov
- American Academy of Dermatology. Can the right diet get rid of acne? AAD.org. aad.org
Medical Disclaimer: This page is for educational and informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice, and reading it does not create a patient-provider relationship. It describes general medical information and categories of care, not a recommendation that any individual start, stop, or change any test, treatment, or medication. Any diagnosis or treatment decision requires evaluation by a qualified, licensed clinician who knows your personal and family history. Consult a qualified healthcare provider before making medical decisions. Information reflects sources available as of October 4, 2026.
Ashley Harwyn, PA-C, ABAAHP, is a Diplomate of the American Board of Anti-Aging Health Practitioners (ABAAHP) through A4M and the founder of Solcara Health. Solcara serves South Carolina from Downtown Charleston (163 Rutledge Ave, Ste 202, The Longevity Club) and Mt. Pleasant (496 Bramson Ct, Ste 120).




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